Restaurant Review: Milktooth

You know that new restaurant in town that it seems like everyone is talking about? Here in Indianapolis, that’s Milktooth. They opened up shop down in Fletcher Place back in October, and the buzz has only gotten louder since the restaurant and chef/owner Jonathan Brooks were featured in Food & Wine magazine. Milktooth boasts the first ModBar coffee bar in the city, as well as a rotating menu of mainly locally sourced, seasonal dishes. The menu does have the slightly pretentious line stating no modifications are allowed to the dishes, but hey- that’s their prerogative, right? A ringing endorsement from my friend Nicole was the kicker- I NEEDED to try this place. Thankfully, a warm and sunny brunch opportunity with one of my very favorite people, Ali, presented itself and we took full advantage. 😊 

As with any restaurant with some hype surrounding it, there was a little wait when we arrived. We were invited to order coffee, cocktails and/or pastries from the coffee bar while we waited, so we stepped over the peruse the offerings. We stuck to iced coffee since I had to work and she had to drive, but MERCY, did those mimosas and Bloodys look divine! And with fresh squeezed juice to boot. I’ll be returning if only to try one, along with one of the delectable looking chocolate croissants. Mmmmmm. 

We were seated at the bar in less time than the hostess had estimated (yay!), which gave us the opportunity to scope out the menu choices as they came off the grill/prep tables. I tell ya, I’m not sure if that was a blessing or a curse! Everything looked and smelled amazing, and Chef Brooks was right there in the center of it chatting with staff and customers alike. We found him super charming and friendly, and even offered to allow us to order the “Baby Bear”, a.k.a. kid’s plate, when he overheard us commenting that it looked like the perfect breakfast. Ha!

After mulling over the menu for a bit (and changing our minds a dozen times), I went with the sweet Dutch baby pancake and Ali chose the uova al forno. Hers was an Italian style dish of a baked egg with thick semolina toast from Amelia’s, smothered in rich tomato sauce. She also opted for merguez sausage, which added a smoky, spicy crunch. Italian for breakfast, you say? And YES. The bite I tried was absolutely delicious, so I’m sure the bowl as a whole was satisfying.  


Now, surely ordering a single pancake doesn’t sound like much of a breakfast, right? Ok ok, I also ordered a side of sorghum-glazed bacon at the suggestion of our fabulously-moustached server, Brady. But really, let’s just admire before I describe.  


Amirite?! The sweet pancake offering this visit incorporated lemon curd and huge, ripe blackberries. Guuuuuh. I would eat this for breakfast EVERY DAY! Sweet for sure, a little tart, and just enough that you won’t feel disgusting or sick once you polish your plate. The pancake itself was light and crispy around the edges- in a word, perfect. The bacon was a nice salty counterpart, although the syrupy glaze was pretty sweet too. A bit pricey at $5 for a side, but I’m glad I tried it. 

I wish I’d gotten photos of the interior of Milktooth. It’s a vintage-lover’s dream! It seriously looks like they raided only the most chic thrift stores for all the mismatched dishwater/table top knock knacks they could find. It just works. The restaurant itself is housed in a converted auto repair shop, which I think is pretty awesome. In addition to the hip reputation, Milktooth also offers off-street parking (albeit a small lot, it’s still a plus) AND it’s kid-friendly. It is a little on the pricey side for breakfast (think $4-5 for coffee, entrees $10+) but honestly, for the quality of the meal and the outstanding service… It’s worth the splurge. I’ll be going back with the hubby and son soon- I REALLY want to try that sweet tea fried chicken! 😉

Check out Milktooth at 534 Virginia Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46203, and browse the menu here.


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